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By: M Abraham
Louis Vuitton seemed to provide the perfect bookend to the Milan-Paris ready-to-wear season, which ended tonight. Between Miuccia Prada in Milan and Marc Jacobs at Vuitton we saw the return of the lush, full-hipped woman, her breasts served up like ripe fruit. Do those dry, sober minimalists have a chance next to Laetitia Casta, who opened the Vuitton show in a pinstriped gray sundress? Mr. Jacobs’s full-skirted silhouette, with corsets and sometimes a neat little jacket, was somewhere between Brigitte Bardot and Doris Day. The look certainly caught a sexy mood, but if you seriously thought about dragging those gathered skirts around, you’d be tuckered out by the time you reached the corner to hail a taxi.
Ms. Prada effectively closed the Paris season with her Miu Miu show. It was adorable, one of her best, with shapely black wool dresses with scalloped edges, high necks finished with a cord bow, and flowers or buckles in mirrored silver. Some shifts had a stiff, overlapping flounce at the hem, and other dresses and mini-coats came in lavender and orange. The music was the ’80s and the style had vague overtones of the ’60s, but the look was fresh and wearable.
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